[Pamphlet]

I’ve finally gotten myself a gamepad, but I have major issues setting it up for the game. I have a relatively cheap one simply because anything that costs more than $30 is way out of my league for the time being, but regardless:

1. I’ve watched streams and videos of gamepad users. How are they steering so precisely? I cannot hold the analog stick in a certain direction for too long because my thumb ends up hurting pretty badly.
2. What are the actual controls that you’re supposed to use? No, not the assists or the advanced wheel settings thing, but the actual control scheme. I can only apply 100% or 0% throttle or braking, which causes me to lose control extremely often, especially when coupled with the aforementioned point. And I really hope you don’t have to use the right analog stick for that.
3. Are you supposed to tinker with the advanced wheel settings when using a gamepad? Would that even have any effect? If so, what values should I be aiming for?

[Anonymous]

Just buy a Xbox 360 control pad. That works perfectly on PC with pretty much no calibration.

[Toro Stevo]

I use an xbox 360 controller on pc, and the throttle button (back right thingy) is not binary, there is throttle control. I’d check that your gamepad is able to do it, I don’t think the old console generation type controllers could do it.

I don’t know about how people steer so accurately with gamepads, I struggle but I have gotten better over time, maybe it’s practice. I’m now just able to compete against professional AI with no traction control or abs in F1 2011, using Mercedes. Have heard F1 2012 changed things around though, can’t offer advice on that.

I think you can play with the deadzone and linearity settings for controllers, that might make it easier to steer. I honestly haven’t changed them and just tried to adapt to the default, but I might give it a try now.

[Sparckus]

Not tried using my generic controller yet, I use my PS3 controller using this handy tool: Clicky

You can set it to emulate an X360 controller in the options, not had any problems with it yet. If you’ve got a bluetooth dongle it works wirelessly as well.

[Pamphlet]

I tried recalibrating my controller. Are you supposed to have complete control over the Z axis? It seems L2 and R2 control it but I can only press them all the way. I have a feeling that this is why I cannot use anything other than 0/100% throttle/braking.

EDIT: Yeah, seems like they’re supposed to be pressure sensitive but it has no effect on the controller no matter how (much) I try to calibrate it. I keep applying different levels of pressure to the backside of the L2/R2 buttons but the controller doesn’t even recognize it. Only way it recognizes the L2/R2 buttons at all is if I fully press the front side, and the only thing that does is apply 100% force to it.

[Sparckus]

Is it the gamepad control panel that’s doing the 0/100 on the triggers or is it the game?

If its the game give this a try, if the game thinks its an Xbox controller the analogue throttle / brake should work fine.

Clicky

[Pamphlet]

It’s the control panel.

@sparckus, your link doesn’t work.

[Pamphlet]

Bumping this because it’s now costing me 2-3 seconds per lap in Malaysia.

[Anonymous]

How come you downgraded from a wheel to a pad?

I’d leave the wheel settings well alone, they are not at all compatible with pad settings. Although a pad shouldn’t have many settings, if any. Games are designed for controllers, even racing games, especially casual ones like the F1 series. It’s just getting used to it, which seems funny because as someone who has grown up playing racing games with controllers, it’s second nature.

All the fastest times are still set by the best people using wheels & pedals, but with a controller you just have to be as smooth with your steering thumb as possible, and get a feel for how far you can squeeze the brake trigger without locking up, and how quick you can squeeze the accelerator trigger before your wheels start to spin.

[Author]

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